March 20, 2007
Gin
I have been asked in my comments box what kind of gin I like.
The answer is: good gin. Although with enough vermouth or tonic, even bad gin can be made tolerable.
The main distinction between gin is between sweet and dry gin, with the original Dutch stuff being sweet and the English (London) gin being dry. However, even the Dutch stuff has gotten drier.
My normal standby is a London Dry Gin: Bombay Sapphire. It is loaded with botanicals, all subtly added to create a delicate complexity. The juniper is ever-present, but it is not allowed to take over completely. Regular Bombay is fine, too, even though it is not as complex, layered or nuanced. It is, however, a finely balanced gin and makes for a good martini.
Now, if I can splurge, there are some gins that top my list:
First and foremost is Van Gogh Gin (not to be confused with Van Gogh Vodka, which is easy to find - the gin is not as common), a flaovorful, super complex Holland gin which is really a treat. After that, I am quite fond of Plymouth gin, another very complex and fun way to spend the cocktail hour.
Now, on the other end of my list, the cheap-o, let's-save-money gin, is Trader Joe's Admiral Joseph's Gin. I don't know who makes it, although I suspect Beefeater. It is not as well-balanced as Bombay, certainly not as complex, but with a generous amount of vermouth, it does fine in a martini. In fact I prefer it over Tanqueray, which, while being interesting, is too citrus-dominated for my tastes.
Don't get me wrong, I won't turn down a martini made with Tanqueray, but I don't buy the stuff unless there are no other choices. And Tanqueray 10 or whatver it is called, is really not worth the money, although I have yet to try it in a gin fizz. Maybe that is where it comes into its own.
Of course this leaves the question of what should go into a martini and in what proportions?
In the shaker goes:
1. 2 shots of Gin. Not vodka.
2. Vermouth. Generally people make a martini with dry vermouth, but sweet vermouth adds an interesting twist, although you will want to also add a dash of bitters if you do that.
3. A splash of ice water. Gin is bottled too strong.
4. Ice. Gin is best chilled very cold.
Now, if I am using Van Gogh, then the vermouth will always be dry, and will only be added by the drop, about three drops or so. If I am using Bombay Sapphire, I will add a quarter to a half a shot, depending on my mood. If a lower gin, then a half shot. If it is a terrible gin, a whole shot. If I am doing a sweet martini, I will add a half shot of red vermouth and a dash of bitters.
Shake? Stir? I like to shake mine, because it creates those floating ice crystals and makes it cloudy. If you like yours clear and want to minimize dilution (although dilution releases a lot of the subtle flavors of the gin), stir.
And strain into a glass that has had the following treatment:
1. While you are mixing the drink, fill the glass with ice and ice water. Let sit.
2. Use some of that water in the martini.
3. Shake (or stir), and let the shaker rest.
4. Pour out ice and water.
5. If you like your martini burned, add a couple of drops of malty (not peaty) single malt Scotch and swirl around.
6. The glass is ready.
Remember:
Garnish with an olive or a twist for a martini, with a pickled onion for a gibson. If you are using Tanqueray you might want to garnish with a twist. I highly recommend using anchovy-stuffed olives from Spain. They are great in a martini.
Ahhh. Easter is coming.
"The important thing is the rhythm! Always have rhythm in your shaking. Now a Manhattan you shake to fox-trot time, a Bronx to two-step time, a Dry Martini you always shake to waltz time."
-actor William Powell, as the famous detective Nick Charles
demonstrating, while half in the bag, the fine art to a group of NYC bartenders in the 1934 movie The Thin Man
Bombay Sapphire is the only gin I've found more than marginally drinkable. Then again, it's also the only one out of your whole list that I recognize, so I would seem to be virtually illiterate regarding this matter.
Maybe I should check out some of those others ...
Posted by: cacofonix at March 20, 2007 3:04 PMHendricks is fantastic. I couldn't remember its name when I was typing up the post (evidence, no doubt, of too much gin, or, more prosaicly, of too little sleep last night).
I have had a Shakeratu, which is like a Bronx, but with a splash of Campari. Yum.
And, yes, it is gin season, although for some of us we must give it up for 40 days. That still leaves a good 316 days, although I don't drink gin every day. I probably should, but I don't.
Call me a piker.
Anyway, do try brine-cured anchovies. I get them at a couple of places here in the Bay Area, and they are delicious. Not at all what you might expect. Delicate, slightly acidic, fresh, bright flavor. Very nice, indeed.
Posted by: Erik Keilholtz at March 20, 2007 11:11 AMIs it gin season already?
I'll have to go w/ Bombay regular for the Martini/Gibson.
2 shots gin.
cap-full of dry vermouth.
shake.
1-3 tiny onions and twist of lemon.
or almond-stuffed olive.
I understand a brine-cured anchovy is nice. Haven't tried it.
My chef buddy tells me Plymouth gin is good. And Hendricks is his other current fave.
BTW, have you tried a Bronx? A forgotten classic.
Equal parts gin/dry vermouth/FRESH squeezed OJ.
Shake and Serve up. Nice on a hot day.