Erik's Rant
 

May 17, 2006

Insomnia... and the Waiterrant

I have never really had insomnia, except for a day here or there, but always rarely, until this last week.

It started Friday night, in Sacramento. I figured it was a combination of heat and hay fever. Saturday and Sunday were a little better, but not much. I get to sleep fine and then wake up around 3am. And stay up until 5am. Last night I was able to mostly sleep through the night, but I still woke up every so often, something I generally don't do.

Tonight I was up at 2:30, and have been totally unable to get back to sleep.

I am pretty hopeful that this will pass, but in the meantime I am going to make the best of it, and try to get things done.

Tonight, for instance, I read through the entire comments for a couple of The Waiter's recent posts.

The Waiterrant is a fun read: the Waiter is a fantastic writer, but of a Hemingway stripe. You read him and think "what a jerk" for the most part, except for a couple of brief moments when you think "ah, this guy might not be all evil after all."

Of course the best way to appreciate his own perspective is to read the comments from his fellow waitrons in the comments box. Their sense of entitlement makes the host's seem insignificant. Hell, after a couple of these guys I thought "the host comes accross as a gentleman."

My biggest gripe with the Waiter is his concept of his right to a good tip. Now, there are some social justice issues involved in tipping in this country, and we have allowed a wretched system to take root where the establishment barely pays its employees, placing the burden on the customer. This is problematic, because, as The Waiter is very happy to point out, there are some unreasonable jerks out there in customer land. The solution would to have a fixed service charge, which would be split in a controlled manner, determined by statute, so that owners could not skim (owners who take part of the tips are, by definition, scumbags, and I even include the owners of one of my favorite North Beach Italian restaurants in this category).

So, we do have a problem where something that was intended to be a bonus, a reward for exceptional service, becomes an integral part of the waitrons' livelihoods. And, as a result, we have had an ever-increasing standard for tipping. I remember when 10% was considered fair. Then 15% (which is where I take my stand, and will not budge, although I tend to double the ever-increasing sales tax, more as a matter of convenience, so in the City, the waitron gets about 17%, which is often outlandish, but easier to calculate in my head). Now I see folks advocating 18% or 20%, which I can live with when it is service from a real pro giving his all (you take my dirty fork off my plate and put it on the table for the next course, and you are back in 10% land immediately, or, if I am feeling charitable, I will drop it on the floor and request a clean one. And no, I am not a particularly difficult customer, but abominations are abominations, and I will not let you get away with that one).

I also take deductions off the standard for ignorance, especially when it comes with arrogance, excessive slowness (although I can live with that, so long as the atmosphere is good and I have something to eat or drink), rushing (much graver sin), frequent mistakes (especially if the waitron was showing off his memory by not using a pad), etc.

The one time I will not take a deduction off for bad service is when it is really bad service at a restaurant I am reviewing. In those cases I give a standard tip and then go home and tell half a million of my closest friends all about it.

So, anyway, I might add Waiterrant as a regular link on the site. Or not, if I cannot take his whiny sense of entitlement. We'll see how I see it after a good night's sleep.

Posted by erik at May 17, 2006 4:14 AM
Comments

Oh Server Boy,

I think I am going to send back your "economics lesson" to the kitchen. The logic you propose would suggest that I am leaving you at least a $4 tip on an $8 burger. Now I know that you think you are entitled to that, and that you think that you probably bring an over 50% value to the meal, but welcome to the real world.

Also, it is cheaper, as a percentage of average income, to eat out in Italy, where service charges are standard and not dependent on the charity of the diners. So, perhaps you should be the one taking a basic economics class.

A great waiter is worth his weight in gold, but they are so few and far between that I can barely remember the last one I encountered. And I am a professional food critic for a chain of daily newspapers in the best food region in the United States.

Most waitrons I encounter are fine, but are completely average food servers. When I start hearing them (and I do at one of the after hours places I have been spotted at once or twice) whine that they don't get enough tips, I roll my eyes.

I could sit around moaning that I don't make enough money reviewing restaurants. After all, in under two hours I could put your restaurant out of business or make your feet and back ache severely with a good review. However, I know that it is a market thing. If restaurant reviews were more in demand I could charge my paper more money for them, and make more outrageous demands.

Similarly, if waiting tables was such a powerfully in demand thing, then waitrons would be able to command what they think they are worth. Fortunately for diners, this is never the case, as most people will be satisfied with fairly spotty service, thus ensuring a vast and utterly replaceable labor pool.

My advice to you is: get over yourself, son. It ain't rocket science. People will go to a restaurant with great food and lousy service much sooner than one with great service and lousy food (think of most Chinese restaurants out there).

Posted by: Erik Keilholtz at November 6, 2006 10:08 PM

Try serving and you'll change your close-minded views about waiters. And the reason why tipping still exists is because if the owners paid their employees more, you would be paying $20 for a hamburber and fries when it used to be $8. Take an economics class kid.

Posted by: at November 6, 2006 11:23 AM

I cut him a lot of slack. He's a highly educated man, no longer young, and he's working in a job that requires him to be subservient to anyone who walks through the door, a job without hope of advancement.

That, and he's struggling mightily with his ideas on God and morality after having passed through a progressive seminary and a job in the mental health system. Few career paths would make you more bitter than that one.

Posted by: Patrick at May 17, 2006 9:12 AM

Here's a sunnier thought.

Out at brunch after Mass Sunday with Jim, a friend from church. Don't recall exactly how, but we started talking about Bob Wills. Turns out that Jim's Dad was a guitarist, a friend of Leon McAuliffe and an occational player on live sets (though no recordings) with the Texas Playboys.

When Jim was a little boy, they went to a Wills show and McAuliffe called Jim's dad up on stage to join for a few tunes, including 'Roly Poly'.

Posted by: Gregg the obscure at May 17, 2006 7:24 AM
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