The Sundial Bridge

Of course the first art-related question that a visitor to Redding must answer is, "what do you think of the Sundial Bridge?"

Since we are in Redding with some frequency we have been watching the bridge go up from the plans to the final product, which has been exciting. The finished bridge is stunning: elegant forms that provide multiple vantage points emphasizing different curves, different angles and different materials.

I will not go into too much detail on Calatrava's work, as I have not seen that much of it first hand, and the actual structures are always more interesting in real life than from even the best photographs (although this bridge is very photogenic - wish I had brought my camera). What really struck me was the tile work on the tower. I had read that he was influenced by Gaudi, but did not see it until I saw that tile work, which looked a bit like something that Gaudi and Robert Ryman could have collaborated on: monochromatic white, where the texture is composed solely by the variety of tile sizes.

When you approach the tower, it is nothing but a dazzling white form, elegantly sloping away from the Sacramento River. As you get closer, you see that the white surface is actually a mosaic.

My one criticism of the bridge is that dazzling white can be overwealming in Redding. This is a town where the summer temperature is regularly over 100 degrees. In Sacramento we used to always say, "well, it could be worse, you could be in Redding or Red Bluff." So, as you cross the bridge on a hot day, the brightness of it is almost blinding.

However, all of that bright hot light forces you to look at the river and the trees, so the bridge brilliantly throws the focus from itself to the lovely scenery not by understatement, but by outlandish overstatement. Then, once you reach the shade of the tower, you can focus on the structure itself, which rewards with some of the loveliest angles that were not painted by Richard Diebenkorn.

The Sundial Bridge is part of the Turtle Bay Exploration Park, which is Redding's answer to the Oakland Museum of California, but with a local focus instead of a statewide focus. It combines the various civic museums of Redding: art, history and natural science under one roof.

For a veteran of history museums, I am used to the standard cant of the liberal academics who run these places. They show some artifact of human history, like logging, and basically say, "Ah, you thought that logging was good. Well, it isn't. It's BAAAAAAAAAAAAD."

It's usually a little more subtle than that, but not much:

"While popular publications glorified the settlers, we now appreciate the devastation that they brought upon the land, the indigenous people, and even their own women, as they established systems that forced ethnic minorities, women and animals into conditions that amounted to slavery. Two four six eight, Race! Class! Gender!"

The Turtle Bay Exploration Park, being in Redding, has to play it a little more cautious. As a result they actually achieve the detached, fairly objective view of things that the others pretend to by indulging in Commie Agitprop.

DIGRESSION:
Melanie: Amalia, here is a pretty, clean cup for you.
Erik: Actually it is a very clean cup that happens to be pretty.
Melanie: What did I say?
Erik: "Here is a pretty, clean cup for you." I just wasn't able to see the comma from where I am sitting.
Melanie: Amalia, he might be sick, but he is still a pain.
DIGRESSION OVER

For instance, the current exhibit about infrastructure shows the hidden water, energy, and landfill costs of building things (cities, subdivisions, etc.), but also amply shows the benefits to these things. The exhibit is also well designed, attractive, interesting, and full of great historical photos.

Bravo to Turtle Bay! If you are in Redding, definitely check them out (they also have a five foot long white sturgeon in their very cool Sacramento River tank).

Posted by erik at July 19, 2004 12:29 PM | TrackBack